Tree Wound Sealer Paste for Pruning and Grafting Cuts
A clean cut should be sealed before it dries, and this paste does it in one stroke. The thick green film covers exposed wood, stays put on bonsai branches and orchard limbs, and leaves the tree free to heal. The 100g jar comes with its own flat brush, so the job is ready the moment...
Read the full descriptionDescription
A clean cut should be sealed before it dries, and this paste does it in one stroke. The thick green film covers exposed wood, stays put on bonsai branches and orchard limbs, and leaves the tree free to heal. The 100g jar comes with its own flat brush, so the job is ready the moment the saw goes down.
Instantly forms a firm protective film over tree wounds to prevent drying, cracking, pests and rot
- dry cracking of pruning cuts
- insect and pest entry into wounds
- rot and putrefaction of cut surfaces
- slow healing of tree scars
Seal every cut so your tree heals clean
Open wood dries, cracks and invites pests after every prune. Brush on a firm protective film in seconds and let the tree heal instead of struggle.
A firm film that seals the wood on contact
A firm film that seals on contact
Brush the paste over exposed wood and it sets into a firm protective film right away. The cut stops looking raw and stays covered while the tree works on its own repair. Packaging describes it as forming a firm protective film instantly over scars and saw cuts.
Guards against pests and rot
The film keeps insects out of fresh wood and blocks the damp that lets rot take hold. The packaging lists prevention of pests, putrefaction and dry cracking on cut surfaces. Use it on bonsai branches, orchard limbs and graft unions alike.
A jar and brush, nothing else
The 100g wide-mouth jar comes with its own flat brush, with orange nylon bristles on a wooden handle. Dip, spread, close the lid. Nothing to mix and no glue gun to warm up.
Brush it on in one clean pass
- 1Make a clean cut
Cut with sharp tools so the wood is smooth rather than torn.
- 2Let surface moisture dry
Wipe off wet sap and loose debris, then give the cut a few minutes to dry before sealing.
- 3Load the flat brush
Dip the brush into the wide-mouth jar and pick up a thin amount of paste.
- 4Paint the exposed wood in one pass
Cover the full cut in a single even layer, edges included, so no bare wood shows.
The jar and brush, nothing else needed
- Tree wound dressing jar×1
100g net weight in a wide-mouth screw-top jar
- Flat application brush×1
Orange nylon bristles on a wooden handle
Characteristics
Reviews
Questions and answers
Both. The jar is compact enough to sit on a bonsai bench, and the flat brush gets into the narrow cuts that small branches leave. Orchard limbs use the same method, just with more cuts per session.
The film is made to keep pests and rot out of the wood. Seal only clean, dry cuts. Sealing a wet or dirty cut is the one mistake that traps moisture under the film, so let surface moisture dry first.
Brush it on once per fresh cut. After it sets, the wood should look fully covered by a smooth green coat with no bare patches at the edges. Reseal if you open the cut again.
For a bonsai bench or a few fruit trees, yes. Each cut needs only a thin layer, so one jar covers a long run of small cuts. Heavy orchard work will go through it faster, so keep a second jar on hand for the peak weeks.
Yes. Once the graft is secured, brush the paste over the union and any exposed cut edges. It covers the same open wood a graft leaves behind.
Compare the cost per cut, not per jar. The 100g jar comes with its own brush and replaces the tape, glue and wax most people improvise. Cheap sealers that dry brittle crack open and need redoing, so the premium paste costs less over a season.
Similar products
See all





